This is a really nice Gundam you made here! While most common, it’s also the one that requires most modding to make sure the parts can be reassembled. You might be tempted to clean this plastic lip right away, especially in panel lines and other detail areas. Scribing is rather straightforward. Do everything you can to remove seamlines on subassemblies right away. My choice is a. I appreciate the differentiation between paints. First separate your Gunpla (torso, head, arms, legs, waist). If you want to use the eye sticker, hold off until final assembly. So for either the hardcore zaku 2 fans or for those who want to practice their advanced gunpla building and detailing skills then this kit is for you. Then for panel scribing is tamiya fine engraver .2mm. See reviews, photos, directions, phone numbers and more for the best Roofing Equipment & Supplies in Dallas, TX. When you prime your kit, go over all seams again as a lot of the time, seams can seem to be invisible and can't be felt but as soon as primer is added, the bits missed will show up clearly. Method 1 - The glue and sand technique. Basic idea is to place the guide (usually plastic tape) along the panel line and lightly drag your scriber along it. In most cases though, it’s much easier to hide those seam lines rather than remove them. With some effort, the parts will look like they were a single piece from the very beginning. The solvent glue works to melt the plastic and when the parts are pressed together, they are effectively welded together and become one whole piece. Sometimes it’s unavoidable. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. I also had to shorten the face mask a bit. Remove vacuum bag immediately and discard in a sealed, airtight bag. Those are: gluing, scribing and covering. Sand away until the glue has gone and the seam line cannot be seen or felt with your fingernails. So I'm glad I didn't buy that instead. As you can see on the picture, shoulder armors on HGGT RX-79[GS] are identical. This article will discuss a few methods for filling in seams. If you don’t want to paint your kit, you can make it from spare runners to match the color of the piece. Removing seam lines is one of the essential skills when building and painting your Gunpla. Nowadays we see less and less seam lines on Gunpla kits, thanks to Bandai’s ever improving engineering. Next up, I had to mod the inner pieces – simply trimming the top edge so it looks like a cross rather than a square. Drag your scriber lightly along panel line a couple times and you’re pretty much done. This video talks about seam-lines and probably the easiest way to remove them, by using modeling cement. For bigger surfaces, consider using thicker, slower drying glue instead. It’s a fundamental not only for Gunpla building, but in all branches of scale modeling. Seam - A part of a model where two halves of a section, e.g. Usually they involve altering the way the parts connect, without affecting kit’s appearance or articulation. Learn how your comment data is processed. We’ll need to fill those with putty. @Goldsickle seam line removal? As you can see, I leave some polycaps inside. Repeated test fits will tear it off. Just a few simple tips and you will make you Gunpla/Model kit into a World of difference. The first job is to remove the seam line and any scratches. Some pieces simply cannot be glued together, usually because keeping them separate is essential for assembly. Metal Roofing Supplies in Dallas on YP.com. Here's another tutorial ! No need to be fancy about it – just cut off excess plastic with your nippers and sand the leftovers flat. Just be sure to wash your hands afterwards. The magic of model cement (vs super glue) is that it is a chemical reaction where by you are melting the plastic itself (the cement is basically an acid to plastic). The dreaded shoulder... Great DIY article. Interesting, thanks for the insight. Never knew the... Not really, unless you use this goo to re-cast the part... Would this work to repair a broken articulation? Using glue is the most common method of seam removal. Apply very little pressure and repeat it until the panel line has a uniform depth once again. an upper thigh, join together. What works best for one person, may not be what works best for another. Some clamps to squeeze the parts (not pictured); (Optional) Your preferred scribing tools; Most common ones will be the gaps and other imperfections where seam lines didn’t close properly. This section is very useful during the seam line removal process. You can apply it to each part separately, but keep in mind that thin cement dries rather fast. But to answer your question on how people can paint while a piece is attached to a model - there's multiple ways. Most of the time you’ll need to figure them out for yourself. Stress Marks: Discolored areas on the kit, where the plastic was stressed. Updated February 13, 2018. Damaged by Design © 2020. Excellent stuff. Thanks! "Now,... Heya! Make sure the parts hold together well, as any movement may crack the paint afterwards. Another way of hiding a seam lines is adding extra piece on top of them. It gives you much more working time, so you can apply it over the entire area before it starts to dry. For now, I hope you found this guide helpful. Once modded, the face easily slides in from the bottom. Using glue is the most common method of seam removal. Nub removal is one of the most important techniques to master. r/Gunpla: While Gunpla is a portmanteau of "Gundam Plastic Model", this subreddit is dedicated to the practice of building all mecha models. Gunpla - Gundam Plastic Models. User account menu • Assembled! There are several ways to fix seams in model kits. Also saves a lot of time, as you don’t have to worry about modding the part to fit them in later. Apply generously to both ends of the part you want to join. 2. However, there are a few seam lines I want to remove, but many of these are directly next to or on top of differently colored parts in the same sub-assembly, such that I cannot do the seam removal while the part is disassembled. Plastic cement will fuse two halves into a single part. They often get filled if a seam goes across them and need to be rescribed. Another issue you might come across are removed panel lines. Mine was numbered 1200. Press J to jump to the feed. [Gunpla Tutorial]Learn how to remove seem lines now with our tutorial Video! Excellent info. And this is the final result, once painted and panel lined. It should look smooth after all that sanding. Just one tip i could suggest regarding below. Referred to in the context of 'seam line' and is something that many modelers prefer to remove with the use of cement and/or putty, where the seam line is an unavoidable part of the construction and not disguised or intentional. Later on I’ll show you some example mods that help when dealing with those tricky parts. Don’t worry if it’s loose, you can always glue it in during the final assembly. Yeah, it should prevent it from breaking. It’s usually a good idea when one or both ends of the part have a female polycap. Another way to apply glue is to put the part together first and then drop it into the gap. After removing the seam lines, I had to rescribe the vinyl cover texture on all the major joints. Best way to go about it would be for the finished piece to slide in from above. Common in older kits Log In Sign Up. Most times fixing them is simple: a little bit of cement and sanding will be enough. This site is amazing. I was building a cleaver for an Efreet... Great tutorial. It’s perfectly safe, as the plastic they’re made of doesn’t react with cement (and most other chemicals). This plastic lip is something we actually want, as it shows the parts have joined together well and there won’t be much need for putty later. Line them up and squeeze really hard. This is the part where we need to use the finishing sand paper. I combined scribing and covering methods to hide the seam line on the head of my Barbatos Nemesis. I was redoing my Figurise-bust and Winning Fumina... Don't bother with brass rods, visit your local general store, they... Hmmm and just read you can't use dremels on this...shit, I... Sweet tutorial thx mate. Many HG Gundam heads come in two pieces – front and back, with the face mounted from the inside. I'll watch some videos of gunpla part repair and seam line removal tonight at work to prep myself for Thursday. You can see that the seam line was completely removed.,yet the surface was rough. To Purchase our tools you may click the Information on the Video Tab Above. Gunpla Seam Line Removal Full Version! With some cleanup and a pin wash, it’s impossible to tell one of those panel lines houses a seam line. Method 3 - The Putty technique. So for either the hardcore zaku 2 fans or for those who want to practice their advanced gunpla building and detailing skills then this kit is for you. With seam lines removed, we must now inspect the parts for any obvious mistakes. That said, they’re still present on many cheaper kits – SDs, HGs, as well as some NGs. More advanced builders usually remove them using plastic cement and/or putty. I've heard people who use cement will apply it, then squeeze the outer-frame parts until the melted plastic "gushes" out, then you sand that part down to a finish. Moving on, announcing seam line removal, styrene cement, dehydration confirmed. Granted this could be photoshop at work done to remove those lines; but for most model builders, those lines were removed using simple techniques. One way to deal with them is to paint the parts and assemble them. Gunpla Tutorial: Easiest Way to Remove Seam Lines - YouTube Sanding them down would be one way to deal with it, but I decided to do something more interesting. I marked those in red on the second picture. Inspect the parts carefully, see how they go together. Next, use the alligator clips to hold the part by its connector piece. I combined scribing and covering methods to hide the seam line on the head of my. To do so, we’ll need to turn the T-shaped piece into a peg, as well as cut out any obstacles which might block the movement – both inside the head and on the face piece itself. Paint on Plastic by Lincoln Wright - Duration: 6:01. Tags: GunplaTutorialBasicsModificationFix. So if you missed our first community workshop here is your chance to join our second one. As with anything in modeling there are always alternatives and techniques people prefer over others. This method allows more precision, letting you avoid applying glue onto details, which may ruin them. Cut the pegs a bit shorter and at an angle so that the tip is thinner and can be inserted more easily than the original bigger tip. This created space for the armor pegs, allowing the glued piece to slide in. This is brilliant.. Plastic cement will fuse two halves into a single part. I'm sure you will! Seam line removal. Most common ones will be the gaps and other imperfections where seam lines didn’t close properly. Really appreciate all the info. We’ll need to fill those with putty. To Visit our website for further information, Link: www.gundam.my. Now it's time to prime. I'm REALLY glad you... Hey, sorry for being late with comment approval, I've been on... Hey. 1. This involves extra-thin cement, sanding, and puttying as required. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. As with nub removal, use a stiff sanding stick, fine flat file or a sandpaper wrapped around a file/piece of plastic for flat surfaces. To deal with it, I had to measure the distance from the seam line to the edge of the piece, and then scribe a symmetrical panel line on the other side. Method 2 - The Shaving technique. This workshop will be covering basics for Gunpla and Plamo modeling like seam line removal, panel lining, top coating and so much more. Although a little messy, it works best with water so all of the sanding was done wet. “Pin C5, pin socket C6, engage. Hope you get something out of it ! Press J to jump to the feed. As you can see, the armor pieces sandwich over the elbow joint, with each half connecting at two points. Next up, squeeze both halves together. First off, we need to apply glue to the parts. Carrollton Weekly Ad - AceHardware - Let Ace Hardware provide you with great hardware products and advice from our official online home. Using the Madworks zero chisel, I cut the round details from the main armor piece. Afterwards, hold the stick in one hand and the can in the other and apply an even coat; make sure to not have the spray can too close to the part or you'll apply too much. Since the cut was a bit rough, I had to use some epoxy putty to make them fully round again. For seam line removal is same colored nubs melted in cement. As such, seam line removal is a skill that’ll probably never go out of fashion. They fit right into the elbow pegs and can be mounted independently. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts It also creates a slight gap between them and the armor, making it look consistent with the knee joints. CHAPTER 52: Administrative Procedures for the Construction Codes of the Dallas City Code These recently adopted codes can be purchased on-line at the International Code Council website. Those round pegs at the elbow make it impossible though. All Rights Reserved. If you’re going to paint your kit, spray some primer on the parts to help you spot mistakes. Problem is, they need to be separated to mount the face in. Can you reassemble them after gluing or do they require some extra mods? My choice is a homemade plastic putty. This is also the only method which physically removes the seam lines, while the other two only hide them. Community Workshop: Gunpla Basics. The KEY is to squeeze. All in all this kit was ok, it's great for practicing seam line removal, painting, creating battle damage effects, and weathering. The trick to this technique is gluing only half of this extra piece, on one side of the part. The amendments (see above links) are available online at no cost or for purchase ONLY at the Oak Cliff Municipal Center, 320 E. Jefferson Blvd., Room 118; Dallas, TX 75203. This was done with gently rubbing with 800 grit ‘Wet & Dry’ (W&D) paper. I'm no pro, but each kit will have some line work you'll need to do. Here you can see all the parts I trimmed. Don’t worry, if the plastic runs out of the seam line. Big downside of those is obviously a giant seam line, running across the entire head. This was one of the most annoying parts of HGGT Gundam Ground Type-S build. Seam lines are often the second most glaring issue on the kit – right after nub marks. Before we get there though, let’s take a look at the tools we’ll need, as well as three basic seam removal techniques. Sanding down…apply polishing compound.” The countdown timer showed that there were only 30 minutes left. To save yourself some time, you can use the back of your hobby knife (or mould line removal tool) to scrape off the plastic lip. Seam lines are often the second most glaring issue on the kit – right after. Just trying to figure out a better process so that I'm not masking off loads of the inner frame. This is actually the best primer (pun intended ) on paints... What if the peg joint isn’t broken, but merely stressed? Now for some seam line removal, masking and detail painting/weathering (slight) .. this guy will be ready to snipe some feddies! It’s faster, at the cost of precision. Generally, parts are snapped together using pegs and holes, where the pegs go into the holes. Leave the other half hanging over the edge. Leave it be. Last thing you want is fixing the seams, only to realize you can’t put the part back on the kit. It’s common when they have other parts mounted inside them. If you are going to glue pieces together and remove the seam line, how much of the inner frame to you keep on underneath it? 6:01. This hard wearing sandpaper can be used dry like normal sandpaper or with water. Mostly present on cheap / old kits. Well, nubs are new / bad gamers, so nub management is very important. Thought I had some more examples, but I guess this is it for my HGGT Ground Type-S. I’ll try to expand this section in the future, with mods from other kits. Always happy to hear someone found it helpful :). Since scribing is a huge subject, which requires its own tutorial or two, I won’t be covering it here in detail. For rounded ones use a circular motion and, preferably, a soft sanding sponge. Seam Line: Gap where two halves of a section (that should ideally be a single piece, like gun barrels) connect. Hopefully the examples below will give you some idea how to approach and think about these mods. Vacuum furniture; including areas behind paintings, dressers, desks, floors and carpeting with a heavy duty HEPA vacuum paying special attention to cracks and crevices along the seam line of the carpet, and baseboards. Main purpose of these mods is retaining the ability to disassemble the kit for painting after seam removal. All in all this kit was ok, it's great for practicing seam line removal, painting, creating battle damage effects, and weathering. This is also the only method which physically removes the seam lines, while the other two only hide them. If you like us don't forget to SUBSCRIBE!Question Regarding Gunpla?At our website we have a Chat function, You may ask anything regarding Gundam Price, Customer Service and etc. Before we jump into removing seam lines, we should take a moment to plan the process. When the part is assembled, it’ll sit right over the seam line, hiding it from view. Remember – these are just examples. Quick and easy. Whether painted or not, a seam line running down the middle of an arm or a leg never looks good. Afterwards we can glue the outer piece together, remove seam and repaint the sanded areas. or Simply Whatsapp us at 018-988-2022.Follow us now on: Facebook - www.gundam.my/fbInstagram - www.instagram.com/gundam.my/Website: www.gundam.my While most common, it’s also the one that requires most modding to make sure the parts can be reassembled. Those do not warrant the same design effort as RGs, MGs or PGs. Obviously it becomes easier with experience – eventually you will be able to figure them out rather easily. So we have to either paint and install the face first, or mod it, so it can be mounted from the bottom instead. Thank you! Thank you... No problem and thank you very much. I felt like the way the extra thin works, by running into the seam lines almost like a wash when painting, was not what I wanted. So what are the nubs anyway? Use the clamps to hold the part together until the glue dries. It gets tricky, when both sides of the body use the same pieces, rather than mirrored ones though. Construction varies from kit to kit, so usually there are no prescribed solutions. I'm building a RG Sinanju, and i'm planning to custom paint it. Paint on Plastic by Lincoln Wright 32,841 views. We need to do something about them. WIP. Dragging melted plastic across the surface is a rather bad idea. Another tricky mod I encountered were upper arms on RX-79[GS]. The cheering had gradually died down … It might cause some serious damage. We can do so by scribing panel lines into them, or by covering them up with extra plastic. As the parts are pressed together, a bead of plastic ooze will seep out along the seam line and applying constant pressure to the seam while the glue cures ensures that a full weld forms. In the last few years, Bandai has been doing a great job hiding seam lines and using nice crevices to make them look like panel lines, but there’re always a few spots here and there where the seam is noticeable. Once dry, sand it flush and repeat this step if needed. All of the part and need to apply glue to the parts together... Altering the way the parts I trimmed I combined scribing and covering methods to hide those seam lines often. Remove them, or by covering them up with extra plastic little pressure and repeat this if. Sanding down…apply polishing compound. ” the countdown timer showed that there were only 30 left... This is also the only method which physically removes the seam lines is adding extra piece on top of.... Epoxy putty to make sure the parts and assemble them seam goes across them the. In two pieces – front and back, with each half connecting two. ) connect gap where two halves into a single part but in all of... 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